If you have a question or even a potential issue, please give this section a look as it may be answered here. If you require information that is not found here, please contact us by email, or directly by telephone, Monday - Friday from: 10:00 - 5:30 Est. (863) 699-1812 


Receiving a new system- We have tested your new stereo system during the assembly process and then once again prior to shipping. We strongly recommend that you power it up and bench test it prior to installation to make sure that nothing during shipping or even a manufacturing defect has occurred. To do this you must have a good power source such as you vehicles 12 volt battery.
If you try to use a low current "battery charger", or other power supply that provides less than 10 amps of power, your system will not function correctly.

1)- Always connect the RED wire on the console to the (Positive + ) from the battery / power source, and never exceed 13 volts.
2)- Always connect the BLACK wire on the console to the (Negative -) from the battery / power source. Never ground to the vehicles chassis.
3)- We supply the correct size wire with your system, never use any wire smaller in gauge than what has been sent with your radio. 
Minimum wire size for standard systems- #16 - #14  
Minimum wire size for systems with internal amplifiers- # 14 - #12

AM/FM Radio: 
If your unit is equipped with an AM/FM radio we have included an industry standard antenna adapter that will be exiting from the back of the console. This is NOT an antenna, but an adapter that is connected to the antenna port from the radio unit.
Choosing an antenna for off-road use must be considered, and that having the optimum antenna "whip" type in most cases is not a good idea, as they tend to get "ripped-off" when in the wooded areas. The only logical choices left are "Low Profile" antennas, which are compact by design and can be mounted most anywhere and do not stick up where they are subjected to being damaged by tree limbs.
We strongly recommend that when you choose a Low Profile antenna you do so with a built-in amplifier. We offer a couple models as such and available under the "OPTIONS" of all of our radio systems. Amplified antennas are also known as "powered" antennas, and they require 12 volts power source operate. The internal circuit "amplifies" the radio signal and sends a stronger signal to the radio, thus enabling a better alternative to the conventional whip type antenna. Truth be known there is nothing better than a stand-up antenna for radio wave reception, but in our cases sacrifices must be made.

Installation Considerations: 
When installing your system follow our directions as we have designed your system for a specific application if it were purchased as such. Make sure that after the installation of the mounting kit and physical mounting of the radio to the mounts that all hardware / fasteners are gone over to make sure they are tight. We STRONGLY recommend that you use a thread-seize compound on ALL stainless Steel threads, this will limit the potential of a thread-lock situation which can be a common problem when using Stainless Steel hardware.
Never use a power screwdriver or air-tool to tighten the mounting bolts or console to the mounts. Use (2) small open ended wrenches when tightening the nuts by anchoring the nut that is closest to the console, while turning the upper one. NEVER turn the lowest nut with the wrench, these have been tightened at our factory and you do not want to allow the entire threaded bolt to turn against the plastic.

Unwanted Vibrations (NOISE):  
How many times we have heard; "my console is making vibration noise when I turn the volume up". As stated in the directions we explain the most common occurrence for this, with the most being the "Antenna and or antenna connector" has been left loose above the console causing it to "rattle" against the top side when the vibrations of the radio are increased.
This is easily rectified by simply wrapping the connector and antenna end in a piece of foam. Other cause of vibration include; Loose nut and or bolts, Loose washers, Loose P-Straps, Contact between the roof and the console- (use foam rubber sheeting between the console and roof underside if to close). 

There are other things that can cause vibrations that have nothing to do with your console, however your console may be causing them. Aftermarket roofs that are not properly designed to be secured to limit vibration is another leading cause. Metal or even Plastic roofs should never be directly mounted to the top of roll bars. There should either be an air gap of at least 1/2" with foam rubber seal between the two, or suspended above with spacers to keep the roof from causing vibration.
Even as our systems are also designed to be able to be thru-roof mounted, an improperly mounted roof can actually act like a speaker when induced by the vibrations of the radio console.
If you run into this type of situation, please give us a call and we will help you with a viable solution.